Key Points
- Cafe Kowloon is a modern Cantonese restaurant located at Mentmore Terrace next to London Fields station, opened by the hospitality group behind Mr Bao in Peckham.
- The venue operates as a restaurant within a restaurant, with guests entering through a daytime noodle bar counter called Wonton Charlie’s into a railway-arch space that includes red-and-cream booths, neon lighting, a floor-to-ceiling bar, an open kitchen with counter seating, and a 40-cover summer terrace.
- Chef Budgie Montoya runs the kitchen, serving Cantonese dishes.
- Menu items include prawn toast served with two crisp-fried prawn heads and green spring onion mayo, lo bak goh turnip cake, homemade yun cheong sausage with chilli jam, char siu pork collar with grapefruit, and short ribs in Hong Kong curry sauce.
- Desserts feature Hong Kong-style French toast with Hong Kong milk tea ice cream, Ovaltine mousse with milk ice cream, and tofu ice cream with ginger and kumquat.
- The drinks menu includes smacked martinis, green tea coconut martinis, cocktails mixed with Japanese electrolyte drinks, and an eclectic wine selection.
London (Extra London News) August 25, 2026 — Nestled beneath the atmospheric railway arches of Mentmore Terrace right next to London Fields station, the vibrant culinary landscape of East London has welcomed a striking new addition. Cafe Kowloon, conceived by the team responsible for Peckham’s popular Mr Bao, has rapidly established itself as a bustling cultural and gastronomic anchor. Combining the spirited, informal dining and drinking culture native to Hong Kong with an unbridled Hackney nightlife energy, the venue functions as an immersive cocoon, shielding diners from the bleak British weather while serving up a masterclass in modern Cantonese comfort food.
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What is the concept and design behind Cafe Kowloon?
The architectural and spatial journey into Cafe Kowloon is an experience in itself. As detailed by Jules Pearson of London On The Inside, the venue operates as a “restaurant within a restaurant”. Diners initially step through Wonton Charlie’s, a compact front counter space primarily dedicated to daytime wonton noodle soups, before opening up into the seductive, sprawling main dining room.
Expanding on the interior atmosphere, David Ellis of the Evening Standard noted that the restaurant is situated beneath a railway arch where
“the bricks have been covered in cream corrugated panels, the rumbles of the trains overhead silenced by the insistent thump of club music”.
Ellis further observed that the interior features
“brown leather booths and red table tops, of lamps that might have come from a yacht or stolen off set from a Fellini film”.
According to design breakdowns cited by the Evening Standard, the glowing Chinese characters displayed near the entrance translate directly to “flagrant,” signifying that mischief and devilment are heartily encouraged inside the establishment. Adding to the nocturnal, club-like ambiance, Time Out reviewer noted that the restaurant lacks conventional windows—save for a striking Wong Kar-wai-esque scarlet red bathroom—giving it the distinct aura of an exclusive club rather than a traditional eatery, complete with DJs occasionally propping up mixers at corner tables.
Who is leading the kitchen and what is on the menu?
At the heart of the culinary operation is acclaimed chef Budgie Montoya, who, as reported by Time Out, “kicks out Cantonese classics with aplomb”. The menu is intentionally designed for communal sharing across the table, reflecting the sociable dining customs of Hong Kong.
Reviewing the food offerings for London On The Inside, Jules Pearson highlighted several standout plates, noting that
“highlights for us included the smashed cucumber salad with crispy rice; the lo bak goh turnip cake; and the yun cheong homemade sausage, with chilli jam”.
Pearson reserved particular praise for the venue’s iteration of a British-Chinese classic, stating: “Best of all, however, was the prawn toast, which is served with two crisp-fried prawn heads and a brilliant spring onion mayo and HK chilli oil for dipping”.
This sentiment was echoed enthusiastically by Time Out, which described the prawn toast as “outrageously thicc” and advised readers to “suck the brains, crunch the rest” alongside its “lurid Kermit-green, creamy spring onion dip”.
Further elaborating on the core menu selections, Time Out pointed out the appeal of Chef Montoya’s savory lineup:
“In the kitchen is acclaimed chef Budgie Montoya, who kicks out Cantonese classics with aplomb, starting with a soupy bowl of beef tendons and a platter of soft and squishy yun cheong sausage, which is fragrant with five spice and boasts more than a little peppery Cumberland energy”.
Furthermore, Time Out noted the impact of the restaurant’s signature meat dishes, writing:
“Do try and contain yourself, as you’ll also need to order the char siu collar, the sticky-sweet cuts of meat given a tart, citrus shakedown thanks to chunks of ruby-red grapefruit”.
Additional menu fixtures identified by SquareMeal include smaller plates such as curry fishball skewers and prawn wontons, progressing to larger sharing plates featuring spatchcocked quail with blackened citrus, steamed sea bass finished in seasoned soy sauce, and short ribs cooked alongside a robust Hong Kong curry sauce accompanied by pickles.
How does Cafe Kowloon handle its drinks and dessert program?
The establishment approaches its drinks list with an equal measure of playfulness and modern mixology. Writing for London On The Inside, Jules Pearson noted,
“We kicked off with a smacked martini, and moved our way through Pillars pilsner, and—this being Hackney in 2026—an Argentinian chilled red: Pergolas Criollas Tintas, Cara Sur Field Blend”.
David Ellis of the Evening Standard drew attention to the venue’s entry-level pricing strategy for beverages, writing that staff actively point out the two-pound “sips”—described as “thimble-sized stiffeners to get things going”—which included options like a green tea coconut martini praised as “a beauty, decently strong but full of aromatics”. Other reviewers highlighted drinks infused with cultural nods, such as cocktails blended with the cult Japanese electrolyte drink Pocari Sweat.
When it comes to concluding the meal, desserts receive high marks across all major publications. Jules Pearson urged diners:
“Don’t miss the Hong Kong French toast for dessert – and say ‘yes’ when they ask if you want it topped with HK milk tea ice cream”.
This was reinforced by Time Out, which noted that while the French toast remains a local legend, options like the lighter “Ovaltine mousse with a moreish milk ice-cream” provide a manageable alternative for guests who have overindulged on savoury plates. SquareMeal further catalogued experimental sweet finishes, including tofu ice cream served with ginger and kumquat.
Why is Cafe Kowloon becoming a defining destination in Hackney?
Cafe Kowloon successfully bridges the gap between high-energy nightlife and precision comfort food. As summarized by Jules Pearson in London On The Inside,
“Cafe Kowloon has a lot going for it—an incredibly fun vibe, slick interiors, excellent service, and a tight menu of dishes that deliver fun and flavour in spades”.
David Ellis of the Evening Standard concluded that rather than attempting to radically challenge its guests with avant-garde culinary concepts, the restaurant “would rather you enjoyed yourself,” providing a much-needed urban sanctuary that successfully repairs the spirits of diners facing the relentless damp and grey skies of East London. Operating with a blend of late-night dining, club-adjacent soundscapes, and sharply executed modern Cantonese plates, Cafe Kowloon stands firmly as one of Hackney’s most essential culinary destinations.
